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Planning guide

How to plan a gallery wall with real measurements

Use a photo of your room and the outside dimensions of your frames to compare layouts before making holes in the wall.

Updated 19 July 2026

Short version: photograph the wall, set a real-world scale, enter outside frame sizes, arrange with consistent spacing, then verify the exported measurements on the physical wall.
  1. Photograph the wall clearly

    Stand as square to the wall as the room allows and keep the intended hanging area visible. Include all four wall corners when possible if you want perspective-corrected ceiling and floor measurements. A well-lit, level photo is easier to calibrate than a wide-angle or heavily tilted shot.

  2. Set the real-world scale

    For a quick visual estimate, mark both ends of one known distance such as a measured cabinet width. For a wall photographed at an angle, use four-corner calibration and enter the wall width and height. Drag a misplaced point before applying the scale.

  3. Use outside frame dimensions

    Enter the full outer width and height of each frame, not only the print or artwork opening. Add the rail and mat sizes separately. If the mat is asymmetric, unlink its sides and enter top, right, bottom, and left values.

  4. Arrange for rhythm, not a magic formula

    A gap of roughly 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 in) is a practical starting range for many mixed-frame walls, but the room and frame scale matter. Consistency usually matters more than one universal number. Use alignment and equal-spacing indicators, then judge the composition in the room photo.

  5. Export, check, and only then hang

    Use the measurement view and PDF to review frame positions, gaps, and, after four-corner calibration, distances to the wall top and floor. Recheck important measurements with a tape measure and account for the actual hook, wire, or mounting hardware before drilling.

Quick scale or four-corner calibration?

Quick scale is faster and useful for visual layout work. Four-corner calibration maps the photographed wall plane and is the better choice when the photo has perspective or when ceiling and floor clearances matter. Neither replaces a final physical check.

Common questions

Why is a manufacturer's 40 × 50 cm frame larger on the wall?

Frame makers usually use the picture, glass, or insertion format as the product size. With a mat, that same format is the mat's outside size. The rail extends beyond it, so the finished outside frame is larger. Manufacturer frames in the visualizer show both the order format and the derived outside footprint.

Can I use my own room photo?

Yes. Choose an existing image or take a new photo on mobile, then calibrate a known distance or the four wall corners.

Do my room and artwork images leave my device?

No. The editor processes and saves projects in your browser. Images are not uploaded to a Frames on the Wall server.

Can I plan a wall without a photo?

Yes. Start with a built-in wall scene or a plain color, set the wall dimensions, and arrange frames at real scale.

Does the PDF tell me exactly where to drill?

No. It provides frame positions and planning measurements. The drilling point depends on each frame's mounting hardware, so verify that offset on the physical frame.

Open the gallery wall visualizer
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